8/18/20
Didn’t have a board meeting yesterday, but definitely made up for it today. I drove down to LBI with my brother yesterday after work. We crashed at our Aunt and Uncles place and after about 4 hours of sleep got out for dawn patrol.
First off, the sunrise today was killer. That alone would’ve been worth the trip, but there were waves, too. Steve and I tried to catch a few before the tide came all the way in.
My shoulder felt great, I’m happy about that. I felt pretty good paddling, but I’m definitely out of practice. My timing was way off and I was popping up too late. I took a couple drops but that’s about it.
Steve got a bunch of good rides though, and after my shoulders ran out I snapped some great shots of him. Snapping photos was just as fun as actually riding waves in its own way.
After a while he came in and we swapped. I wanted to try to catch a few more shore break waves now that the tide was almost all the way in. Again I took a couple drops and that was about it. On one though, I felt great. Popped up. Set the rail, grabbed the other and dug into a backside drop.
I got it right at the peak, and my timing felt right on. The wave closed out right away, but the drop felt sick and I was sure Steve got a great shot.
Poo man! Didn’t look anything like I had pictured in my head. Oh well!
It was just sick to spend time with Steve and get out in the water. We weren’t the only ones either! We shared the break with some majestic dolphins, and some less than friendly sea lice???
I never new sea lice were a thing but they’re at most harmless and at least extremely annoying. They floated on into our shorts and apparently liked the way my ass-crack tasted.
That’s the dream I guess. Floating in a stew of parasites waiting for waves as they munch on your balls. Thankfully the itching has subsided!
Oh and the dolphins were sick too. Steve saw one do a full breach out of a wave like 15 yards away from me. I was busy itching my crotch so I missed it 🤣.
After dawn patrol, we grabbed a dozen bagels and hung out with family while we waited for the tide to go out.
Session two started around noon. Aunt Maria joined us for some beach bumming while we surfed. The trade-off for low tide was onshore wind. Still rideable though! I’d say more so than in the morning, and no sea lice!!!
Steve was the wave hog again, and I improved on my timing a bit. I’m rusty though, man. And maybe I’m spoiled in Rhode Island. The reef at Matunuck shapes up the waves in a much more consistent manner.
On a couple I was able to make solid bottom turns before falling down or getting closed out. After about an hour our arms were toasted and we called it a day.
We got back to the house and finished off with some carves on our skateboards.
The dream.
August Heelflip Attempts: I hate sea lice.
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