Board Meeting Minutes – 135/365


I didn’t ride at all yesterday. My body was begging me for rest. I’ve pretty much abandoned my ollie goal this month… my mind is preoccupied with surfing. There is so much activity in the Atlantic it’s crazy. Might be making another trip out to the coast next week. And I have my fingers crossed for some swell later this month when Nia and I make a trip to Block Island.

This morning I did some yoga to loosen up the back and shoulders. Then went down the block to surf the Goodwin Place Peeler. It was fun to hop on the surfskate so soon after actually surfing. Images of the wave faces I rode kept flashing in my head as I made turns on the asphalt.

I saw a YouTube video of a guy “surfskate training” for surfing. I tried to mimic that this morning. I’d roll down the hill a bit, and practice big bottom turns, crouching down and cranking my shoulders. I’d try to carve a semi circle until I was pointing back up the hill, then crank my shoulders the other way as if I was slashing the lip.

Definitely want to keep practicing that because I feel I can do each individual turn fine, but its the quick transition from one to another that still eludes me. I felt that in the water on Tuesday too. A couple times I’d get to the lip but was unable to point the nose back down the wave quickly enough.

It was also crazy to still see the sky as hazy as it is this morning. I’m used to crisp, crystal clear September skies, its one of the things I like most about this time of year. Wild to think that it has blown here from 3,000 miles away, and even scarier to think about what it is from.

When I see the dimmed out sun in the hazy sky I cant help but think of photos from the Mars rovers. That freaks me out, too. I feel like Mars is a kind of model or warning of what the future of Earth will be as the climate continues to change. Almost like the cautionary tale of a carbon addict in the solar family…

Idk, random thoughts brought to you by Mike. Anyway, hope I can surf again next week. I should be on the lookout for used longboards, too. Maybe I can patch mine up, give it a paint job, and sell it to some VW collector. There seems to be a market for surfboards among VW van/bug restorers. They like to put decorative boards on the roof. Might be able to get some cash for it.

September Rolling Ollies: Still 244…

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