Another morning session today. I just came in and I’m sitting on my patio. The wave is breaking behind me. It’s always “breaking” … It’s a paved road.
The more I practice here in front of my house the more and more I get the feel for how to turn this simple transition from road to driveway into a surf-able wave. And it’s steps outside my door! Suck on that, COVID-19 travel restrictions. I’m about to turn into a salty local if anyone else tries to skate this wave. Start trolling people in the comments section of Inertia articles. Tell them it’s their poor life choices that left them living far from a surf break…
Today was cool though. I think I made some progress with my cutbacks, and I added a little nuance to my line. Usually I’d just hop on my board and head straight across the street. Pumping along the way.
I changed that up ever so slightly, but it made an awesomely huge difference. Instead of a running start, I moved up the hill slightly. Gave myself more of a gentle start, pointed straight down the hill, and started from a crouched position. After a little speed from the downward roll, I’d dig my toes in and pump. Now I was back into my original line.
This felt pretty close to a takeoff, which I thought was sick.
I also got my heart rate up to a good level this morning, which I love. Fun activities where cardio is just a by-product are what people need more of.